![]() ![]() I would not bother with any strobe timing light that did not have an inductive pickup clamp and xenon lamp. If everything (distributor, pulley, points) is bone stock you can either static time it with just a 12v (or 6v) test light or use a basic strobe. On this engine you can use a home made static timing/test light and feeler gauge, the latest digital timing light and automotive multi-meter, or anything in between. You just need to decide which features you want. They are backwardly compatible so you do not need to get any sort of "old school" timing light. This helps to see the timing marks.Īny modern timing light will work. Used by people who actually know what they are doing, andĤ. This will go around the wire itself and not require pulling or even, God Forbid, piercing the wire.Īny unit that doesn't meet those two requirements toss in the trash.ģ. An 'induction' connector for the spark plug wire. ![]() Two wires that hook to positive and negative on the battery.Ģ. I use a Jacobs’s ignition timing light with dial back, but I've had it for so many years I couldn't say what they sell for.Īny timing light worth putting in the tool box will haveġ. For your purposes these you would consider non-adjustable. Still later many cars went to Coil Over plug or other variants that don't even have distributors. This started in the 80's and became more and more common. Later cars often have fixed timing, thus no adjustment. On electronic ignitions you can use the timing light to set the initial timing, which is then adjusted on the fly by the ignition control module. Many you were not supposed to adjust but you could.Įxample CCC and CCCC GM ignitions were quite adjustable.Ī GOOD timing light will have 'dial to back to zero' capabilities. The mid range, 72-90's ignitions often had adjustments, though they were virtually all electronic. The old Kettering (points) ignitions were fully adjustable. ![]()
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